A simple way to make sure all of your guitar's string through the body holes line up and are evenly spaced. Mattia: your idea might work --I might be able to find an 11.5 mm metal bit...or will that chew up the wood? Issue is that the bridge holes were drilled about 1/16th or so off center of the pickup cavities and neck pocket from the factory ('70's Fender quality control = ). I have three sets of studs here --two come from a TOM/tailpiece set from an Asian-built guitar, the other is a set from a new Wilkinson wraparound bridge. Meanwhile, the studs I have are all slightly different as well--we're talking about .5 mm or more in difference. Once I push in the posts (or gently hammer or heat the posts with an soldering gun), the corrugated metal will dig in the wood/poly and sit in there nice and tight. Step 3: Drill the holes. Worth a try. I tell you what bro, I will mail you a 7/16" bit for free if you want me to. But I don't want to have send to the states for a damned bit, I want to get this guitar done already! I'm currently laying down the clear coats, then polish, then put in all the accessories. Step 4: Now its time to drill the holes. Hint: it’s better to drill a slightly deeper hole rather than a slightly shallower hole. Here's my dilemma; the diameter of the posts measures exactly 7/16 inch. Here's one that doesn't seem to have been covered: what size drill bit are you (European builders especially) using to drill the holes for your TOM-style/wraparound bridges? × (I plan on a good month of curing time, maybe more). I have a forstner bit just for this. So with the 11 mm bit I should be able to get the bushing in there ---but in order to do that I'm really going to have pound away with a rubber mallet. https://www.instagram.com/phillip_mcknight/ If the setup's solid, it won't wander anywhere. If you end up with a bit of slop, you can always coat the inside of the hole with epoxy, then bed the the bushing down into that. I think theorethically you should use a bit which is larger than the core diameter, but smaller than the extended size caused by the small ribs pressed to the surface of th bushing. The bottom part of the posts, which is the smooth metal, fits too loosly in the holes but the upper corrugated part is a bit too large for the holes. Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing...especially because my pickups are slightly recessed too, it'll end up looking even cooler... time to hit the search function figure out the best way to do this....think i've got a forstner bit that should fit the bill... One problem with recessing the studs on the Leo Quan bridge is that you will bottom out quickly, so you won't get much clearance that way. × You cannot paste images directly. So my choice is either using a bridge with a lower profile (I have a Wilkinson Gotoh wraparound here too) or I can recess the studs a bit. (I'd do tests on scrap first of course). Seems to me that it shouldn't require that much force? By The only problem is that I'm using a Badass bridge --but since that's really tall, I can't get it low enough to make the strings touch the frets. Stewmac's site indicates that I need an 11 mm bit to drill the holes. Is that the way it's supposed to be done? The problem I'm having comes from my bits-- the 11 mm bit is actually shy of 11 mm. The guy at the hardware store suggested using the drum sander attachment of my mini drill to widen the holes a bit. All of the studs I have here measure 12 mm at the top (just below the collar). Mark the depth of the hole on the drill … If you are right handed, stand on the bass side of the guitar. I've got a bunch of them, so it's no problem. You then put another 1/8″ drill, or dowel in this hole. Paste as plain text instead, × Have you tried a 7/16" bit, sounds like yours might not be metric after all. I am well over 100kgs, so i suppose somebody else with less weight might use blows with the rubber hammer. I vote for recessing the studs, simple to do and may even look cool. Know Your Gear Stickershttps://reverb.com/item/14204159-know-your-gear-5-stickers-and-5-dava-picksBecome a Patron and help keep independent videos goinghttps://www.patreon.com/phillipmcknightKYG Join me on Facebookhttps://www.facebook.com/Knowyourgear/I post other stuff on instagram and I would love to see you there. Use your bridge to mark the locations of your string-through holes. But beware, if any paint gets into the hole, it will be impossible to hammer the bushings in. How To Fix Loose Guitar Bridge Posts And Bushings - YouTube Alternately, order a set of imperial bits from the UK (axminster has got to have 'em, surely?). If you've got a kit where holes need drilling for a Tune-O-Matic style bridge and stop tailpiece e.g. The only idea I can come up with right now is to drill the holes with the 11 mm, then wrap the end of the bit in sand paper and manually enlarge the holes until I can press/hammer the studs all the way in. ), ** Current Guitar Of The Month contest **, Voting for November's Guitar of the Month competition is now open. In my case the core diameter was a bit less than 11 mm, so only the small ribs cut into the wood. If I drill the holes with the 12 bit, the studs go in fine--but they're way too loose, they'd slip right out. That's not going to be a problem here, we're talking a minor adjustment here --I only need to drop it by about the width of the top part of the studs (the part that normall rests above the surface --I'm sure there's a technical word for that! I have recently installed a Schaller TOM, with 11 mm brad point bit for the stop bar, and 7 mm for the bridge. Then tweak the bridge back and forth until the guitar is in tune at the 12th and nut. I have a Gotoh Tune-a-matic bridge that I'm about to drill holes for. On the Badass I have (it's an original Pat Pending bridge from the 70s--took it off my Melody Maker) there's plenty of clearance (at least 5 mm)--I don't want to get it too close though, it'll be a pain loading the strings. The Bridge Pin Hole Saws are for cutting the initial string slots in acoustic guitar #5803.028" saw is for bridge pin holes 1 thru 3 or E B G.. I could possibly find an 11.5 mm metal bit, but it won't have the guide point. All of the studs I have here measure 12 mm at the top (just below the collar). Should I just get a larger drill bit for that?
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